Omoide Yokocho Shinjuku Guide – Discover Tokyo’s Retro Izakaya Alley from the Post-War Era

Just a short walk from the West Exit of Shinjuku Station,
Omoide Yokocho – literally “Memory Lane” – is one of Tokyo’s most iconic retro izakaya alleys.
Lined with over 80 tiny restaurants and bars, this nostalgic food street offers a rare glimpse into post-war Japan, where smoky grills, narrow lanes, and warm hospitality create an atmosphere unlike anywhere else in the city.

Originally established right after World War II as an open-air market among the ruins, Omoide Yokocho has transformed into a lively network of yakitori (grilled chicken) stalls, motsuyaki (grilled offal) shops, and small sake bars.
It’s now one of the best places to experience authentic Tokyo nightlife,
where locals and travelers share tables, drinks, and stories under the glow of red lanterns.

Official Website: https://shinjuku-omoide.com/
List of All Shops: https://shinjuku-omoide.com/shop

Before You Visit Omoide Yokocho

・Most restaurants are cash-only. Credit cards and digital payments are often not accepted, so bring some Japanese yen in small bills and coins.
・Hygiene and cleanliness are well maintained. Even though it’s a retro alley, travelers can safely enjoy delicious Japanese food here.
・Smoking rules vary by shop. Some izakayas allow smoking, while others are non-smoking. Always check with the staff before you sit down.
・A table charge (“otoshi” or cover fee) may apply at some bars and izakayas. It’s a small fee (usually ¥300 – ¥800) that includes a starter dish – a common custom in Japanese izakayas.

Featured Izakayas in Omoide Yokocho

Gyutan Iroha – Famous for Boiled and Grilled Beef Tongue

Address: 1-2-3 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Access: 3 min walk from JR Shinjuku Station (West Exit) / 1 min from Shinjuku Nishiguchi Station (about 76 m)
Hours: Mon–Sat 12:00 – 23:30 / Sun & holidays 12:00 – 23:00 (Closed irregularly)
Tabelog: https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1304/A130401/13228233/

A lively beef-tongue izakaya serving everything from the signature boiled gyutan to premium grilled marbled cuts.
Each dish is slow-cooked or grilled to perfection, offering a tender and flavorful experience.
Grab a cold beer, sit at the counter, and soak in the smoky, nostalgic vibe that defines Omoide Yokocho.

Morimasu – Traditional Yakitori and Charcoal-Grilled Fish

Address: 1-2-7 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Access: 1 min walk from Shinjuku Nishiguchi Station (about 99 m)
Hours: Mon–Sat from 16:00 / Closed on Sundays
Tabelog: https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1304/A130401/13000759/

Operating for more than 50 years, Morimasu is a long-standing yakitori bar beloved by locals.
Their handmade tsukune (meatball skewers) are juicy and fluffy, coated in a rich house sauce.
Seasonal fish dishes like grilled hokke mackerel or smoked salmon also pair perfectly with sake or beer.
Expect friendly staff, retro Showa-style decor, and the comforting scent of charcoal.

Torien – Classic Izakaya with a Wide Yakitori Selection

Address: 1-2-4 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Access: 3 min walk from JR Shinjuku Station (West Exit) / 2 min from Marunouchi Line Shinjuku Station (about 87 m)
Hours: Mon–Thu 13:30 – 23:30 / Fri & Sat until 23:45 / Sun & Holidays 11:30 – 23:30 (Closed Jan 1)
Tabelog: https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1304/A130401/13100378/

One of the most popular izakayas in Omoide Yokocho, Torien offers a huge range of skewers – from chicken wings and pork belly to cartilage and handmade tsukune.
Their “Shamoji Tsukune” is a must-try specialty.
The lively atmosphere, local patrons, and selection of drinks like lemon sour and Hoppy make this a truly authentic Tokyo experience.

Motsuyaki Ucchan – Grilled Offal and Stew Specialties

Address: 1-2-7 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo (Honami Bldg.)
Access: 3 min walk from JR Shinjuku Station (West Exit) / 1 min from Shinjuku Nishiguchi Station (about 72 m)
Hours: 16:00 – 23:00 (L.O. 22:00) / Open daily
Tabelog: https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1304/A130401/13059673/

One of the liveliest motsuyaki (grilled offal) spots in Shinjuku.
Popular dishes include grilled liver with leeks, juicy harami (skirt steak), and slow-simmered nikomi (stew).
Customers gather around the counter for smoky skewers and icy drinks served with shaved ice.
It’s the perfect spot to mingle with locals and feel the old-school Tokyo nightlife energy.

Gyoza no Antei – Handmade Dumplings Since 1959

Address: 2F Five K Bldg, 1-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Access: 3 min walk from Toei Oedo Line Shinjuku Nishiguchi Station Exit D3 / 5 min from JR Shinjuku Station (West Exit, about 43 m)
Hours: Mon–Fri 11:30 – 15:00 & 17:00 – 23:45 / Sat–Sun & holidays 13:00 – 23:30 (Vary by supplies)
Tabelog: https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1304/A130401/13132676/

Founded in 1959, Antei is an award-winning gyoza restaurant famous for its handmade dumplings.
Their cheese gyoza with crispy edges is a must-try, especially popular among female diners.
Other highlights include beer, shochu, Shaoxing wine, and makgeolli for pairing.
It’s a great place to relax upstairs while watching the lively alley below.

Experience the Soul of Tokyo’s Izakaya Culture

Omoide Yokocho isn’t just a place to eat — it’s a living piece of Tokyo’s history.
Here you can feel the warmth of old Japan, where friendly owners grill skewers over charcoal, and strangers become friends over sake.

Remember:
Most shops are cash only.
Some may charge a small cover fee (“otoshi”).
Smoking policies differ, so ask first.

Despite its retro vibe, Omoide Yokocho is clean, safe, and welcoming even for first-time visitors.
Just a few steps from the skyscrapers of modern Shinjuku, you’ll find yourself in a world where time seems to have stopped — illuminated by lantern light, laughter, and the aroma of grilled food.

Official Website: https://shinjuku-omoide.com/
List of All Shops: https://shinjuku-omoide.com/shop